So much for blogging each day of our travels! It turns out that finding time to write and upload photos was much harder on this loop. Graham, needing a chance to sleep in and recuperate, choose to stay home for this trip, so it was just Mer and me. Our days were packed with museums, sightseeing, and a little hiking. So, in the spirit of “Better Late than Never,” here’s a brief summary of our trip to New England and Philadelphia in the latter half of October.
We started out early and drove directly to Boston for a three-day visit. I hadn’t been to Boston in years, but was quickly reminded of what a cool city it is. Things were mostly open, although not crowded. Our focus this year is on American History, so there were endless things we hoped to do in Boston. We stayed next to Faneuil Hall and the site of the Boston Massacre. After all the reading and studying we’ve done, Mer loved feeling like we were stepping back into history ourselves. We followed the Freedom Trail and saw the many historical building and sites along it: Bunker Hill, the USS Constitution, Old South Meeting House, and the Paul Revere House. The downtown historic area is small enough that we were able to walk almost everywhere.
One of the highlights was our visit to the touristy but fun Boston Tea Party ship. She got to throw cartons of tea into Boston Harbor, and we enjoyed sampling different historic teas afterward. We also did a spooky evening graveyard tour that was a lot of fun. Sadly, however, all of the many university museums were closed to non-students so we had to miss out on several museums that I really wanted her to visit. Mer was also adamant that she didn’t want to do any college tours yet (“too early,” she claimed, “and it will stress me out”), so we skipped even driving through any campuses. We did not skip eating like Queens however; Boston food is amazing. Mer loves seafood of all kinds, so she was in heaven with the food choices everywhere. So much lobster!
On our way out of Boston, we stopped in Salem, hoping to learn more about the Salem witch trials. We had just finished reading The Scarlet Letter and The Crucible. Turns out that Salem is a popular place to visit right before Halloween! It was a Saturday, natch, so the lines to enter many of the museums required 2+ hour waits just to enter. Nope, not gonna happen. Instead, we visited the less crowded and wonderful Peabody Essex Museum and enjoyed just walking around town and people-watching.
We had planned to hike around the White Mountains in New Hampshire, so we scurried up there to try and beat the coming cold and rainy weather forecasted. We stayed in an adorable little Inn and had a great day hiking the Flume Gorge. It was a little cold and drizzly, but the views, forests, and waterfalls made it worth it. We did not get to go up Mt. Washington sadly; it was too cold and windy, and we weren’t in time to book the cog railway up. I have definitely added that to my to-do list for another trip. This is a stunningly beautiful area, and I look forward to coming back with Griff one day.
Our drive the next day took us near Meredith, NH, so of course, we detoured to check it out. We grabbed snacks at the ubiquitous Dunkin Donuts, and had a lovely stroll around Meredith Bay. Our next stop was Concord, MA. Since reading the transcendentalists in high school, I have always wanted to visit Walden Pond. It was even more beautiful and peaceful than I expected. We spent about an hour walking around the pond, looking in the tiny recreated cabin of Henry David Thoreau, and visiting the museum. We have Walden and Civil Disobedience on the reading list for later this year and, hopefully, this visit will help create connections for her during her reading.
Next up was Minuteman National Park. We learned so much at the Visitor Center and enjoyed a long chat with two of the park rangers. This was a small center, but it had great exhibits about the first battles of the American Revolution. Then we were on to Lexington Common, where we toured the visitor center museum and Buckman Tavern. We both enjoyed seeing Lexington and Concord, and learning more details about the events surrounding the start of the Revolutionary War.
We drove back east to the coast and stopped at Plymouth and its famous rock. The town was adorable and the rock was — well– a rock. The Plimoth Patuxet Museum was very cool, however. It is a recreated pilgrim village with costumed reenactors and farm animals. There were numerous buildings and an Indian village. Mer enjoyed speaking with the reenactors throughout the site.
We next headed south to Cape Cod where we spent two days exploring. We walked around the Canal and learned about its construction. We had sandwiches in Sandwich and toured the Glass Museum there. We visited the JFK Hyannis Museum and learned about the history of the Kennedy family. We enjoyed walking around the Cape Cod National Seashore parks collecting shells, visiting the Salt Pond Visitor Center, and looking at lighthouses and the site of the Marconi Wireless Station along the shore. We spent some time walking the trails along the salt marshes as well. We also discovered that Cape Cod has a serious coyote problem, and wild turkeys are everywhere. Who knew?!?
The Whydah Pirate Museum contained great exhibits about the history of piracy and marine archaeology. Next door, we enjoyed The World’s Best New England Clam Chowder. We both agreed they had definitely earned the title. This bread bowl soup may have been one of the best meals of my life. I don’t know what the secret ingredient is, but it was amazing!
Our next destination was the New Bedford Whaling Museum. This place was fantastic! We learned so much about whaling and its importance in American history. It is a huge museum, but it was mostly empty. We pretty much had a docent all to ourselves. He spent over an hour with us answering Mer’s many questions, pulling out additional artifacts, and pointing out details throughout the museum. I learned more about ambergris than I ever thought possible, and the scrimshaw exhibits alone were worth the stop. This was one of the most fascinating museums we have visited, and that’s saying a lot!
Day number whatever was spent in Newport, Rhode Island. We drove around Brenton Point State Park, enjoyed the Cliff Walk, and ogled the beautiful mansions. We toured the Breakers and compared it to our vision of houses from The Great Gatsby. We also stopped by the Audubon Society Nature Center and Aquarium in Bristol, RI, where there were lots of interesting exhibits and hands-on activities. We also enjoyed a lovely hike through their gorgeous wildlife preserve.
In Hartford, Connecticut, we toured the Mark Twain House and Museum and the Harriet Beacher Stowe Center. We learned so much about both of these authors and their connection. I hadn’t realized they were neighbors prior to this. We have read several things by Twain this year (Huck Finn and many short stories, including The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County ). I am also halfway through with Uncle Tom’s Cabin, but I’m not sure if Mer will get to it this year or not. She has an ever-growing pile, and at some point I will have to whittle it down. The hardest part of homeschooling for me is making the final choices of an endless array of interesting options.
Outside of Hartford was the surprising Dinosaur State Park, with many exhibits about the geological history of Connecticut. It has a large geodome that covers over 500 dinosaur tracks. Mer literally shrieked with joy when we walked in. As usual these days, we had lots of time with the park rangers, saw all of the documentary movies they had, and were the sole attendees of an animal demonstration. We stayed until they kicked us out at closing time.
We then had a long but beautiful drive through backroads in Connecticut and New York to reach our stopping point along the Hudson River. The next day we visited the FDR Presidential Library and Museum. This was a fantastic museum and we both learned so much.
We avoided NYC on this trip and instead stopped at Washington Crossing State Park along the Delaware River. It was almost closing time so we were pretty rushed at this point. Turns out that we also went to the wrong park — we stopped at the NJ site, and I would have preferred the Pennsylvania site. I hope we can come back one Christmas Day to see the annual reenactment of the crossing. Other places we wanted to visit in NJ were either closed or I wanted Graham to visit too (Menlo Park and all things Thomas Edison), so we will have to add these to our next NYC trip.
Our final stop was in Philadelphia for a few days. We had previously visited Philly right before COVID hit, but then we focused on the many science museums in the area. This time we stayed in the historic district and visited all the history-related sites. We spent several hours visiting the amazing National Constitution Center. We also visited the usual tourist destinations: Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, Carpenters Hall, and the Museum of the American Revolution. I had seen most of these before, but it was the first time for Mer and she was, of course, in history heaven. There’s nothing like seeing in person where all of these events took place. I’m not the least bit embarrassed to say that we both teared up when we saw the special presentation with Washington’s army tent. It was incredibly moving. The picture of her hugging the statue of Hamilton pretty much says it all about how happy she was.
Sadly, Philly was more shut-down than any of the other places we had visited on this loop. There was also a palpable feeling of tension in the air everywhere we went. I was surprised to witness what I thought were impolite and angry National Park Rangers at the Liberty Bell. They were literally yelling at the visitors if their masks slipped at all. You were not even allowed to hold your breath and take down your mask for a picture in front of the Liberty Bell. The irony of that was not lost on either of us. A different ranger rudely lectured an elderly visitor when she was having trouble hearing the ranger through her mask. You know I’m a serious NP Ranger fan, so this was disappointing, to say the least.
This was also the first time during our two weeks that people seemed “off.” It had the same depressed and tense feeling that we felt in Seattle. I didn’t know it at the time, but later I learned that the murder and crime rates in Philly are skyrocketing. That might explain some of what we felt. The security going in some of the sites was also intense. I wondered at the time if they had gotten some threat about the area; it truly felt that tense in some places. It’s interesting that Boston, on the other hand, didn’t have that feeling at all. Bostonians were out and about as usual. They wore masks inside, but no one seemed uptight about it. People were just going about their business. It’s been so interesting to see how different cities are faring these days. I will be curious to see the changes, if any, during future post-Covid visits to the same cities.
All in all, we had a wonderful trip. We definitely missed having Graham with us, but this wouldn’t have been much fun for him. At his age, most of what we did would have been very boring to him. Of course, there was so much more we wanted to do, things that were closed we wanted to see, hikes to take and mountains yet to climb. But, they’ll all still be there for a future visit.
Next up is a roundtrip loop to Texas and back. We leave in a few days (as soon as today’s snowstorm clears up). We are starting by following the Freedom Rides route to Alabama, stopping first in Birmingham and Montgomery to learn about the Civil Rights Movement and desegregation. We will then head west through Mississippi and New Orleans to Austin, where we will turn around and head north on our way back. I spent the entire lockdown saying I was going to run away to Texas. Finally, it appears we are getting to do just that. Happy New Year to you! And if you actually made it this far, God bless you for that!